This shoe is a fully leather lined, flat heeled, fitted ankle-high bootee for the ladies. With a tapered, squared toe cap, it is made of soft leather on a left/right last. With six black bone buttons on the front of the shoe, there is no need for a button hook. Sara has an elastic gusset on the inside and a smaller one on the outside of the ankle. Don't worry about time period or authenticity. The elastic gusset was patented in Britain in 1837 by the firm of Spekes Hall.