c. 1495-1537 A.D.
The Tudor period marked the beginning of the Renaissance in England,and fashion (especially after 1509) reflected the change. Henry VII, who usurped the throne in 1485, was extremely frugal, and fashion changed slowly during his reign. Henry VIII inherited the throne with a large treasury at the age of 18, and the court blossomed. He was insecure, aggressive, blatantly masculine and suddenly extremely rich. All of which reflected in the opulent new fashions, especially for men. During Henry's reign, styles for both sexes combined elements of German, Spanish and Italian fashions, with heavy French influence overall.
During Henry VII's reign, the houpelande (MM026) became a robe or gown, opening down the front, soon left unbelted and open. This was worn over a skirted doublet, shirt and hose (MM043). Slashing became popular, and the modest codpiece became a grotesque brag. As Henry VIII aged he favored short full gowns to hide his increasing bulk, thus creating a square silhouette.